Inside the Fes medina — Fes & Imperial Cities field journal

The journal · field notes from Morocco

Honest Morocco writing, by people who live here.

No top-10 listicles. Slow, opinionated dispatches from the atelier on when to come, where to go first, what to skip and how to spend your dirhams well. Read before you book — and certainly before you pack.

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One new long-read every monthWritten in-houseNo sponsored postsUpdated each season

This month's long-read

Latest from the atelier.

One slow, in-house piece every month. No commissioned writers, no sponsored takes — just the answers we already give our guests on WhatsApp, written down properly.

Is Volubilis worth visiting, and how do you do a Meknes & Volubilis day trip from Fes?

Latest field note 9 min read

Day trips · June 2026

Is Volubilis worth visiting, and how do you do a Meknes & Volubilis day trip from Fes?

Yes — Volubilis is Morocco's finest Roman site, 70 km and about 1.5 hours west of Fes, on the same road as the imperial city of Meknes and the holy hill town of Moulay Idriss. The honest day-trip plan: real drive times, entry fees and guides, what each place is actually like, and how to fit all three into one comfortable 8–9 hour loop.

Field note 01Read the piece

The archive

Older pieces, still useful.

Re-read every season by our team. If anything is out of date we annotate it at the top of the piece — Morocco changes slowly, but it does change.

42 pieces

Can you see wild monkeys near Fes, and is the Ifrane & Azrou cedar forest day trip worth it?

02Day trips 9 min

Day trips · June 2026

Can you see wild monkeys near Fes, and is the Ifrane & Azrou cedar forest day trip worth it?

Yes — wild Barbary macaques live in the Atlas cedar forest around Azrou, about 90 minutes south of Fes. An honest guide to the Ifrane, Azrou and Middle Atlas day trip: where to find the monkeys, why you must not feed them, what Ifrane and Azrou are really like, the best season, and how to get there.

9 min readRead

Is the Fes medina overwhelming, and how do you avoid getting lost?

03Fes 9 min

Fes · June 2026

Is the Fes medina overwhelming, and how do you avoid getting lost?

Yes, at first — Fes el-Bali is the world's largest car-free medieval city, a maze of thousands of unsigned lanes, and the senses get a lot at once. But it's far more manageable than it looks: why getting lost is normal and safe, the anchors that actually keep you oriented (the gates, the main spine, heading downhill to the river, minarets, an offline map and your saved riad), a calmer way to walk it, and when to just take a guide.

9 min readRead

Can you do a Sahara desert tour from Fes, and how many days do you need to reach Merzouga and the dunes?

04Desert 9 min

Desert · June 2026

Can you do a Sahara desert tour from Fes, and how many days do you need to reach Merzouga and the dunes?

Yes — Fes is one of Morocco's two desert gateways and the closer one to the great Erg Chebbi dunes at Merzouga. The honest planning answer: three days is the sweet spot, the drive is a scenic ~8–9 hours each way through the Middle Atlas and Ziz Valley, what a night in a desert camp is really like, Merzouga vs Zagora, and whether to loop back to Fes or continue to Marrakech.

9 min readRead

What's the best way to see the Chouara tannery in Fes, and do you have to buy anything?

05Fes 8 min

Fes · June 2026

What's the best way to see the Chouara tannery in Fes, and do you have to buy anything?

You view the famous dye pits from a leather shop's terrace, get mint for the smell, then a sales pitch — it's not a scam, it's a shop with an extraordinary view. Honest advice on the best terrace and time of day, whether you must pay or buy, why they hand you mint, photography, etiquette and the common medina situations to expect.

8 min readRead

Planning a Fes trip for the 2030 World Cup — what's confirmed, how to get there, and what to see?

06Fes 9 min

Fes · June 2026

Planning a Fes trip for the 2030 World Cup — what's confirmed, how to get there, and what to see?

Morocco co-hosts the 2030 World Cup and Fes is an announced host city — but most event details aren't confirmed yet. Here's the honest picture: what's locked in, how to reach Fes (Fès–Saïss, ONCF trains, the high-speed rail status), where to stay, and the medina and day trips to fill the days between matches.

9 min readRead

Is Fes worth visiting — and how do I plan the medina and the day trips?

07Fes 9 min

Fes · June 2026

Is Fes worth visiting — and how do I plan the medina and the day trips?

The whole first-timer's question, answered in one place: why Fes is worth two days, the medina sights you should not miss, the tanneries, and the best day trips nearby — Meknès, Volubilis, Ifrane and Chefchaouen — with real drive times and when to go.

9 min readRead

How to get from Fes to Chefchaouen: the blue city by road

08Practical 8 min

Practical · June 2026

How to get from Fes to Chefchaouen: the blue city by road

There is no train to Chefchaouen. Compare every option from Fes — the CTM/Supratours coach, a shared grand taxi via Ouezzane, a private chauffeur transfer (~3.5h door to door) and organised tours — with honest times and indicative fares.

8 min readRead

Marrakech in three days: a slow, opinionated plan

09Marrakech 9 min

Marrakech · June 2026

Marrakech in three days: a slow, opinionated plan

Most people try to do Marrakech in 36 hours and leave exhausted. Here is the three-day rhythm we recommend for first-timers — the medina, Majorelle, an Atlas day, what to skip and where to eat.

9 min readRead

Sahara desert camps explained: Erg Chebbi vs Erg Chigaga

10Desert 10 min

Desert · June 2026

Sahara desert camps explained: Erg Chebbi vs Erg Chigaga

Merzouga or Zagora? Standard or luxury? We map the trade-offs in distance, dunes, silence and price — and what a night under canvas actually includes — with the camps we still send guests to.

10 min readRead

How to haggle in the souks (without getting it wrong)

11Practical 8 min

Practical · June 2026

How to haggle in the souks (without getting it wrong)

The etiquette and the mechanics of bargaining — fair price ranges, the phrases that help, what's actually fixed-price, the set-ups to sidestep, and why walking away is your strongest move.

8 min readRead

How much to tip in Morocco: a practical guide

12Practical 6 min

Practical · May 2026

How much to tip in Morocco: a practical guide

Guides, drivers, riads, camps, restaurants — who to tip, how much, and in what currency. The honest, no-guesswork numbers we give our own guests before every trip.

6 min readRead

Walking Fes el-Bali: a medina guide that won't get you lost

13Fes 10 min

Fes · June 2026

Walking Fes el-Bali: a medina guide that won't get you lost

The world's largest car-free urban area is a 13th-century city still running in real time. The tanneries, the Qarawiyyin, the art of getting pleasantly lost — and when to hire a guide.

10 min readRead

14Food 9 min

Food · June 2026

Moroccan food beyond the tagine

Bessara at dawn, mechoui, seven-vegetable couscous on a Friday, the street-food stalls worth queuing for — what to order, where, and how to eat well whatever your diet.

9 min readRead

A High Atlas day trip from Marrakech, done properly

15Atlas 7 min

Atlas · June 2026

A High Atlas day trip from Marrakech, done properly

Imlil, the Ourika valley, Berber villages and waterfalls are an hour from the Red City. What a good day actually looks like — and the tourist traps to drive past.

7 min readRead

An Essaouira weekend: ramparts, wind and gnaoua

16Coast 7 min

Coast · June 2026

An Essaouira weekend: ramparts, wind and gnaoua

Three hours from Marrakech, the Atlantic's most likeable town — fortified ramparts, a working fishing port, kitesurf wind and a music soul. How to spend a perfect 48 hours.

7 min readRead

Is Morocco safe in 2026? An honest answer

17Planning 9 min

Planning · June 2026

Is Morocco safe in 2026? An honest answer

The honest, current picture — solo and women travellers, the common souk set-ups, which areas to know about, health and the road. What we actually tell our own guests.

9 min readRead

What to pack for Morocco, by season and region

18Practical 7 min

Practical · June 2026

What to pack for Morocco, by season and region

No 'breathable convertible trousers'. A real packing list that changes with the month and the route — medina, mountains, coast and desert all ask for different things.

7 min readRead

Morocco on a budget: what it really costs

19Planning 8 min

Planning · June 2026

Morocco on a budget: what it really costs

Daily spend, where the money goes and the honest ways to save without missing the point of the trip — with sample budgets in USD for shoestring, mid-range and comfortable.

8 min readRead

20Marrakech 7 min

Marrakech · June 2026

How to choose a riad in Marrakech

What a riad actually is, which neighbourhoods suit which travellers, and what to look for before you book — so you get the courtyard, the calm and the location right.

7 min readRead

A 7-day Morocco itinerary that actually works

21Itineraries 11 min

Itineraries · June 2026

A 7-day Morocco itinerary that actually works

The classic one-week loop, day by day — Marrakech, the High Atlas, Aït Ben Haddou, the Dades, the Merzouga dunes and Fes — with honest drive times and what to skip.

11 min readRead

Driving in Morocco: should you self-drive or hire a driver?

22Practical 8 min

Practical · June 2026

Driving in Morocco: should you self-drive or hire a driver?

Road conditions, police checkpoints, city parking, fuel and the real cost trade-off — and why most of our guests end up with a private driver instead of a rental.

8 min readRead

23Culture 6 min

Culture · June 2026

The Moroccan mint tea ritual, explained

Why it's poured from a height, what 'Berber whisky' means, how it's brewed and the etiquette of accepting a glass — the small ceremony at the heart of Moroccan hospitality.

6 min readRead

Aït Ben Haddou: the ksar that keeps starring in films

24Desert 8 min

Desert · June 2026

Aït Ben Haddou: the ksar that keeps starring in films

The UNESCO earthen citadel south of the Atlas — its history, the films shot there (Gladiator to Game of Thrones), and how to visit properly from Marrakech or Ouarzazate.

8 min readRead

Shopping the Marrakech souks: what to buy and how

25Marrakech 9 min

Marrakech · June 2026

Shopping the Marrakech souks: what to buy and how

Rugs, leather, lanterns, ceramics and argan — where to find the real thing in the medina, how to bargain without stress, and how to get it all home.

9 min readRead

Morocco with kids: an honest family guide

26Family 9 min

Family · June 2026

Morocco with kids: an honest family guide

Where to go, how to pace it, the riads that work for families, camel rides and food kids will actually eat — the practical things we tell parents before they come.

9 min readRead

Chefchaouen: why the blue city is worth the drive

27North 7 min

North · June 2026

Chefchaouen: why the blue city is worth the drive

Why it's painted blue, what to actually do there, day trip versus overnight, the best photo spots and how to get to the Rif's most photogenic town.

7 min readRead

28Culture 8 min

Culture · June 2026

Morocco's best photography spots

From the blue lanes of Chefchaouen to the dunes of Merzouga and the kasbahs of the south — where to shoot, when the light is right, and the etiquette of the lens.

8 min readRead

Merzouga vs Zagora: which Sahara should you choose?

29Desert 8 min

Desert · June 2026

Merzouga vs Zagora: which Sahara should you choose?

Big dunes and a longer drive, or accessible desert closer to Marrakech? We compare Erg Chebbi and the Zagora/Chigaga route on dunes, drive time, crowds and cost.

8 min readRead

Morocco's festival calendar: when to come for the culture

30Culture 8 min

Culture · June 2026

Morocco's festival calendar: when to come for the culture

Gnaoua in Essaouira, the rose festival in the Dades, sacred music in Fes, moussems and Ramadan — the events worth planning a trip around, month by month.

8 min readRead

What a night in a desert camp is actually like

31Desert 7 min

Desert · June 2026

What a night in a desert camp is actually like

Camel arrival, the tents, dinner under the stars, the cold nights, the sunrise on the dunes — and the difference between a standard and a luxury Sahara camp.

7 min readRead

A Marrakech food guide: what and where to eat

32Food 9 min

Food · June 2026

A Marrakech food guide: what and where to eat

Jemaa el-Fnaa stalls, the best tagine and tangia, where locals actually eat, street snacks, and the rooftop tables worth the splurge — how to eat well in the Red City.

9 min readRead

33Fes 8 min

Fes · April 2025

How many days do you need in Fes?

One day, two or three? An honest trip-length guide — what each gets you in the medina, why about two days is the sweet spot, and when to add a Meknes & Volubilis day trip.

8 min readRead

The best time to visit Fes, month by month

34Fes 8 min

Fes · March 2025

The best time to visit Fes, month by month

A month-by-month guide to the best time to visit Fes: typical seasonal weather, when the medina and tanneries are most comfortable, what to pack by season, and how Ramadan shifts each year.

8 min readRead

Where to stay in Fes: a neighbourhood guide

35Fes 7 min

Fes · March 2025

Where to stay in Fes: a neighbourhood guide

A neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood guide to where to stay in Fes: a riad in Fes el-Bali, the calmer Fes el-Jdid, the practical Ville Nouvelle, or the hilltop view hotels — with honest pros, cons and the bag-portering reality.

7 min readRead

Getting around Fes: the car-free medina, taxis and beyond

36Practical 7 min

Practical · March 2025

Getting around Fes: the car-free medina, taxis and beyond

How to get around Fes: walking the car-free medina, porters and mules, red petits taxis to and from the gates, hiring a licensed guide, the Ville Nouvelle, the train station and Fès–Saïss airport.

7 min readRead

37Practical 7 min

Practical · March 2025

Things to know before visiting Fes

Honest things to know before visiting Fes: the world's largest car-free medina, the tanneries' sales pitch, dressing modestly in a traditional city, carrying cash, refusing faux-guides, 'balak' and staying aware in the crowds.

7 min readRead

Fes on a budget: free things to do and money-saving tips

38Planning 7 min

Planning · April 2025

Fes on a budget: free things to do and money-saving tips

Fes on a budget: the free and cheap highlights — walking the car-free medina, the Chouara tannery view, Bab Boujloud, Jnan Sbil gardens and the Borj Nord panorama — plus cheap eats, petits taxis and honest money-saving tips.

7 min readRead

Fes in winter: the quiet, atmospheric medina

39Fes 7 min

Fes · April 2025

Fes in winter: the quiet, atmospheric medina

An honest guide to Fes in winter (December–February): cool, often rainy days, chilly riads and what to pack — plus why the quiet, soft-lit medina, lower prices and uncrowded tanneries make it worth it.

7 min readRead

40Fes 7 min

Fes · April 2025

Fes in summer: beating the medina heat

An honest guide to Fes in summer (July–August): genuinely hot, dry days and an airless midday medina — plus how to cope, and why low-season quiet, lower prices and long warm evenings can make it worth it.

7 min readRead

41Fes 8 min

Fes · June 2026

Fes in spring: the best season to visit

Why spring (March–May) is the best time to visit Fes: mild days for all-day medina walking, green gardens and blooming countryside — with a month-by-month breakdown, what to pack and how Ramadan can affect your trip.

8 min readRead

Fes for couples: a romantic guide to the medina

42Couples 7 min

Couples · April 2025

Fes for couples: a romantic guide to the medina

Fes isn't a nightlife city — its romance is slower: a quiet courtyard riad, a shared hammam, a rooftop dinner above the old town, a craft workshop for two and the pleasure of getting lost together. How to plan an intimate few days.

7 min readRead

43Practical 8 min

Practical · June 2026

Do you need a guide for the Fes medina?

The most-asked Fes question, answered honestly: when a licensed guide is worth it through the 9,000 lanes of Fes el-Bali, what one does and costs, how to tell a licensed guide from a faux-guide, and how to navigate the medina on your own.

8 min readRead

Letters from Marrakech

Once a month, a quiet letter from the atelier.

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