Larache, Morocco

Lixus is one of Morocco's oldest inhabited sites: Phoenician presence is documented from at least the 7th century BC, making it among the earliest known settlements on the Atlantic coast of Africa. The Romans developed it as a major city from the 1st century AD, producing garum (fish sauce) for export across the empire — the extensive fish-salting tanks are the best-preserved in Morocco. The site also contains a theatre, a forum and mosaic floors including a celebrated representation of Oceanus. Lixus is 3 km north of Larache on the N1.

The former Plaza de España — now Place de la Libération — is the heart of Larache's protectorate-era ensanche: a circular square ringed by arcaded Spanish facades, with a circular fountain and café terraces. The surrounding streets preserve Spanish colonial architecture in a state of gentle, sun-bleached decay that rewards architectural photography.

A long, sandy Atlantic beach north of the Loukos estuary, backed by a palm promenade — quiet and local in character, with none of the resort development of Agadir or Mdiq.

The French writer Jean Genet, who spent his final years in Larache, is buried in the Spanish cemetery above the town — a place of literary pilgrimage for readers of his work. The cemetery overlooks the Atlantic and the Loukos estuary.

A private two-day coastal drive south from Tangier: Asilah's whitewashed medina, the Roman ruins of Lixus and a night in the Spanish-era port of Larache.

A private day from Asilah or Tangier: the Phoenician and Roman archaeological site of Lixus, with the Larache port and colonial quarter for lunch.