Morocco photography guide

The Chouara tanneries are the iconic Fes shot — best from the terrace of a leather shop overlooking the honeycomb of dye vats, in the morning when the light falls directly into the basins. The Bou Inania and Al-Attarine medersas reward a slow eye for their zellige tilework, stucco and cedar; shoot when soft daylight reaches the courtyards. Bab Bou Jeloud, the Blue Gate, frames beautifully from outside in the morning and glows in late afternoon, and at dusk a riad terrace gives you the medina rooftops with the green minaret of the Kairaouine rising among them.

For a Sahara extension to Merzouga, the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset are the canonical times — the dune shadows are long and the light is golden. The golden-orange of Erg Chebbi in that light is as vivid as it appears in photographs. Closer to home, shoot the Roman ruins at Volubilis in late-afternoon light, with the columns and triumphal arch against the Zerhoun hills.

The single most important rule: ask permission before photographing people, every time. A tannery worker turning hides, a weaver at a loom in the Nejjarine quarter, a coppersmith hammering a tray, children playing in a lane — each deserves the choice. The Arabic to use is 'mumkin sura?' (may I take a photo?). Many will say yes with pleasure; some will ask for a small fee — 5–20 MAD is fair and generous; some will decline, and that decision must be respected without argument. The tanners in particular are working, not performing, so be courteous.

Street photography in the candid western tradition sits uneasily in the Fes medina. Long lenses that allow unnoticed shooting of people who would decline if asked are widely considered disrespectful — and in this devout, traditional city have caused real friction. The most rewarding portraits come from connection, not distance: take the time to talk, buy a small item from the artisan, share a tea if invited, and the resulting images reflect that.

The Fes el-Bali lanes and souks are extremely tight spaces: a versatile zoom (24–70mm equivalent) or a mid-range prime is far more useful than a long telephoto, and a wide angle helps in the cramped medersa courtyards and over the tannery vats. If you head to the desert, dust is pervasive — bring a sealed camera bag and lens cloths, and change lenses sparingly outdoors. The Moroccan sun is intense: shade your lens to avoid flare, and protect your camera from direct sun when not shooting.

• Bring extra batteries — cold desert nights, if you extend to Merzouga, drain them faster than expected.
• A small tripod or gorilla pod pays off for dim medersa interiors and blue-hour rooftop scenes over the Fes medina.
• Phone cameras, particularly with computational photography, perform remarkably in the Fes light and slip easily through tight souk lanes — don't feel obliged to carry heavy gear.
• Keep your camera discreet around the tanneries and busy souks, and remember the leather-shop terraces overlooking Chouara usually expect you to browse in return for the view.

Drone operation in Morocco requires authorisation from the Moroccan Civil Aviation Authority (DGAC). Flying without a permit is illegal, and drones have been confiscated at customs and in the field. The process for obtaining authorisation is bureaucratic and time-consuming. For most travellers, the advice is to leave the drone at home — the medina rooftops and the dunes photograph well from the ground, and the legal risk is not worth it.