Fes is widely considered the culinary capital of Morocco — the refined home of pastilla, slow-cooked tagines, couscous Fridays and a deep repertoire of medina street food, all washed down with the endless ritual of sweet mint tea.
Dishes to seek out
Beyond the famous tagine and couscous, Fes has its own specialities that reward the curious eater.
- Pastilla (bastila) — Fes's signature dish, a sweet-savoury pie of pigeon or chicken under crisp warqa pastry, almonds and icing sugar.
- Tagine — slow-cooked stews (lamb with prunes and sesame, chicken with preserved lemon and olives, kefta with egg).
- Couscous — traditionally the Friday family meal, steamed with seven vegetables.
- Harira — the hearty tomato-lentil soup that breaks the fast in Ramadan, sold from medina stalls.
- Fes street food — bowls of babbouche (snail soup) near Rcif, fried sardines, msemen and sfenj doughnuts, and a glass of fresh juice on Talaa Kebira.
The tea ritual
Mint tea — green tea, fresh mint and plenty of sugar, poured from height — is the thread running through Fassi hospitality. It's offered everywhere, from souk stalls and leather shops to family homes in the medina, and accepting it graciously is part of the experience. Many of the prettiest tea moments come on riad and café rooftops looking out over the sea of medina rooftops.
Eating well and safely
Fes is a conservative, spiritual city, so pork is rare and alcohol is served mainly in licensed restaurants, hotels and some riads rather than in the medina at large. Tap water is best avoided for drinking — choose bottled. Busy stalls with high turnover are usually the safest (and tastiest) street food. Vegetarians do well: salads, vegetable tagines, lentil dishes and couscous are everywhere. A guided street-food walk through Fes el-Bali is one of the best ways to eat confidently and meet the vendors.
Frequently asked
What is the national dish of Morocco?
Couscous and tagine are the two national contenders, but in Fes the dish to seek out is pastilla — the elaborate sweet-savoury pie that is the pride of Fassi cooking. Couscous is the traditional Friday family meal; tagine, named after its conical earthenware pot, is eaten in countless variations.
Can you drink alcohol in Morocco?
Yes, but discreetly. In Fes, alcohol is served in licensed restaurants, hotels and some riads rather than in the medina generally. This is a traditional, religious city, so outside those venues, and especially during Ramadan, it's simply not the norm.
Is Moroccan food good for vegetarians?
Very. Vegetable tagines, couscous, lentil and bean soups, Moroccan salads, fresh medina bread and an abundance of fruit make Fes an easy place to travel as a vegetarian.
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Culture
Morocco Etiquette & Customs
A little cultural awareness goes a long way in Fes, one of Morocco's most traditional and spiritual cities. Dress modestly, greet warmly, ask before photographing people, use your right hand, and embrace the unhurried pace of mint tea and conversation in the medina.
Practical
What to Pack for Morocco
Pack light, modest and layered. A Fes trip swings from hot, dusty medina lanes to cool evenings and chilly desert or Middle Atlas nights, so breathable layers, genuinely comfortable walking shoes and a warm top cover almost everything.
Planning
The Best Time to Visit Morocco
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are the best all-round times to visit Morocco and to base yourself in Fes — warm days, cool evenings and comfortable conditions for long hours on foot in the Fes el-Bali medina, plus easy day trips to Volubilis, Meknes and the Middle Atlas.