Things to do · Fes
On the hillside that rises to the north of Fes el-Bali stand two of the city's best vantage points. Borj Nord is a 16th-century fortress built in the Saadian period under Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, set on the slope to command and overlook the old medina; today it houses the Arms Museum (Musée des Armes), with a large collection of weaponry spanning many periods. A short way along the same ridge are the ruined Merinid (Marinid) Tombs, weathered fragments of a royal necropolis from the Marinid dynasty. Together this hillside gives the classic panorama over the whole walled medina, a sweep of flat rooftops, minarets and city gates that is especially striking at sunset, when the call to prayer rolls up the valley from the mosques below. This guide covers the viewpoint and panorama, the Arms Museum at Borj Nord, the Merinid Tombs ruins, the best light, how to get up there, photography, and how to combine the climb with a wider visit to the medina.
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The northern hillside offers the postcard view of Fes: the entire walled medina of Fes el-Bali laid out below as a dense field of flat rooftops, punctuated by minarets and the green-tiled roofs of its great mosques and madrasas. It is the spot most often used to grasp the sheer scale of the old city in a single sweep.
Borj Nord (the "north bastion") is a fortress built in the late 16th century during the Saadian period under Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, positioned on the slope above the medina to watch over and defend the city. Its solid bastioned form is a landmark in its own right and a reminder of how Fes was guarded from the heights.
Borj Nord today houses the Arms Museum, with a large collection of weaponry through the ages, from blades and firearms to ceremonial and decorated pieces drawn from Morocco and beyond. It is a change of pace from the souks and madrasas, and pairs naturally with the viewpoint just outside its walls.
Along the ridge stand the ruined Merinid (Marinid) Tombs, the weathered remains of a royal necropolis from the Marinid dynasty that once ruled Fes. Little of the original structures survives intact, but the broken walls and arches make an atmospheric foreground for the view and a quiet place to take in the city.
Late afternoon into sunset is the favourite time to be up here, when low light warms the medina rooftops and the hills behind the city. As dusk settles, the call to prayer rises from the many mosques below and rolls across the valley, a moment many visitors single out as a highlight of their stay in Fes.
The hillside sits north of Fes el-Bali, above the medina walls. Many visitors take a petit taxi up to Borj Nord or the Merinid Tombs and walk along the ridge between them; the energetic can climb on foot from the medina, though it is a steady uphill in the heat. Agreeing a fare in advance or asking the driver to wait is common practice.
This is one of the prime photo spots in Fes, taking in the whole medina at once. The ruined tombs give a ready-made foreground, and side light at the start and end of the day picks out the texture of the rooftops and minarets. A zoom helps isolate landmarks such as the Qarawiyyin minaret within the sea of buildings.
A natural plan is to explore Fes el-Bali during the day, then head up to the hillside in the late afternoon to see from above the maze you have just walked through. Some visitors do the reverse, starting at the viewpoint to orient themselves before descending into the medina to find the landmarks they spotted from the ridge.
After the press of the medina lanes, the open hillside feels calm and spacious. With the city spread out below and the ruined tombs around you, it is an easy place to slow down, catch a breeze, and take in Fes as a whole rather than one alley at a time.
There is little shade on the exposed ridge, so bring water, sun protection and comfortable shoes for the uneven ground around the tombs. The Arms Museum at Borj Nord keeps its own opening hours and admission, so check current museum opening times and entry fees locally before you go.
A local guide or driver can time the trip for the best light, explain the Saadian fortress and the Marinid necropolis, and point out the medina's landmarks from above. It also takes the guesswork out of the climb and makes it simple to fold the viewpoint into a half-day that includes a deeper walk through Fes el-Bali.
Borj Nord is a fortress built in the late 16th century during the Saadian period under Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, set on the hillside north of Fes el-Bali to overlook and defend the medina. Today it houses the Arms Museum (Musée des Armes), with a large collection of weaponry through the ages.
The Merinid (Marinid) Tombs are on the ridge north of the medina, near Borj Nord. They are the ruined remains of a royal necropolis from the Marinid dynasty; little survives intact, but the weathered walls make an atmospheric foreground for the classic panorama over the whole of Fes el-Bali.
Late afternoon into sunset is the favourite time, when low light warms the medina rooftops and the call to prayer rises from the mosques below and rolls across the valley. The light is also better for photography at the start and end of the day.
The hillside sits north of Fes el-Bali, above the medina walls. Most visitors take a petit taxi up to Borj Nord or the Merinid Tombs and walk the short ridge between them; it is also possible to climb on foot from the medina, though it is a steady uphill. Check the Arms Museum's current opening hours and admission locally.
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