Fes is really two cities layered on top of one another. Fes el-Bali — the old medina, founded in the 9th century — is the largest car-free urban area in the world: a dense labyrinth of thousands of lanes where deliveries still move by handcart and mule, and where staying means booking a restored riad or dar behind an unmarked door. The Ville Nouvelle (the 'new town') was laid out by the French during the Protectorate in the early 20th century, with wide boulevards, parking, modern hotels and cafés — and it sits roughly a 10–15 minute taxi ride from the medina gates. Choosing where to sleep shapes your entire trip: one option puts you inside the living medieval city at the cost of convenience; the other gives you comfort and ease at the cost of character. There is no single right answer, only a right answer for you.
Option A
The Medina (Fes el-Bali)
Sleep inside the world's largest car-free medieval city, in a restored riad or dar
Best for
Atmosphere seekers, first-timers wanting immersion, those happy to walk in
Option B
The Ville Nouvelle
The French-built new town — modern hotels, drivable streets, calm and amenities
Best for
Drivers, travellers wanting comfort and quiet, families with lots of luggage