Chouara vs Sidi Moussa Tannery: Which Fes Tannery Should You See?

Fes still tans leather the medieval way, and you can watch it from a shop terrace above the dye-vats. The famous Chouara is the big, postcard tannery in the Qarawiyyin quarter; Sidi Moussa is a smaller, quieter one across the medina near the river. Here is how to choose between the spectacle and the calm.

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Fes is famous for leather, and the tanning is still done largely by hand using techniques that have changed little for centuries — hides soaked, stripped, then steeped in honeycombs of stone vats filled with natural dyes. Two tanneries draw visitors. The Chouara tannery, in the Qarawiyyin quarter of Fes el-Bali, is the big one: the largest and oldest, and the source of the iconic photograph of colourful dye-vats seen from above. You view it from the terrace of one of the leather shops that ring it, where you'll typically be handed a sprig of mint to hold against the smell — and where, having shown you the view, the shop will hope you buy a bag or a jacket on the way out. The Sidi Moussa tannery sits on the other side of the medina, nearer the river, and is a smaller, far quieter affair: the same workaday process, the same terrace-from-a-shop view, but a fraction of the crowds. Both are part of the medina's living leather quarter, and both involve the same gentle commercial choreography — being steered to a terrace and then a showroom — that is simply part of the Fes experience.

Option A

Chouara Tannery

The iconic, centuries-old tannery — the postcard view of colourful stone dye-vats

Best for

First-time visitors who want the famous spectacle and don't mind crowds or a sales pitch

Full guide

Option B

Sidi Moussa Tannery

A smaller, quieter tannery across the medina near the river — far fewer tourists

Best for

Travellers wanting a calmer, more low-key look at the same traditional process

Full guide

Side-by-side breakdown

Chouara Tannery vs Sidi Moussa Tannery

How the two stack up across the things that actually shape a trip — read down each column, or across each row.

Category

Chouara TannerySidi Moussa Tannery

Chouara Tannery compared with Sidi Moussa Tannery
Fame & scale	Chouara TanneryThe famous one — the largest and oldest tannery, centuries old, the postcard image of Fes	Sidi Moussa TannerySmaller and far less known — a low-key, workaday tannery most visitors never reach
Location in the medina	Chouara TanneryIn the Qarawiyyin quarter of Fes el-Bali, ringed by leather shops	Sidi Moussa TanneryOn the other side of the medina, nearer the river
The view	Chouara TanneryThe classic overhead view of colourful stone dye-vats, from a leather-shop terrace	Sidi Moussa TanneryThe same kind of terrace view over the vats, but smaller and more intimate
Crowds	Chouara TanneryBusy — a headline sight, so expect other visitors sharing the terraces	Sidi Moussa TanneryQuiet — far fewer tourists, often nearly to yourself
The sales pitch	Chouara TanneryYou're shown the view from a shop balcony; expect a leather-shop sales pitch afterwards	Sidi Moussa TanneryAlso viewed from a shop terrace, but the pressure tends to be gentler and less practised
Atmosphere & authenticity	Chouara TannerySpectacular but well-trodden — the iconic show, with the trade built around visitors	Sidi Moussa TanneryCalmer and more workaday — a quieter window onto the same traditional process
The smell & the mint	Chouara TanneryPungent — the famous tannery smell; you'll usually be offered mint to hold to your nose	Sidi Moussa TanneryThe same earthy tannery smell, generally with fewer people and a calmer pace
Tips & faux-guides	Chouara TanneryFaux-guides may steer you here; agree any fee first — the terrace is a tip, no obligation to buy	Sidi Moussa TanneryLess touted, but the same etiquette applies — be polite, firm, and settle any fee in advance
Who it suits	Chouara TanneryAnyone wanting the must-see iconic spectacle, crowds and sales pitch accepted	Sidi Moussa TanneryThose who'd trade the postcard fame for calm and far fewer tourists

Our verdict

Which should you choose?

If you want the must-see, iconic spectacle — the postcard sea of colourful dye-vats — go to the Chouara tannery, and simply accept the crowds and the leather-shop sales pitch that come with it. If you'd rather a calmer, less touristy tannery showing the same traditional process, head for the smaller Sidi Moussa across the medina, where you'll often have the terrace nearly to yourself. Either way, the leather quarter — and faux-guides steering you toward a shop — is part of the Fes experience rather than a scam: be polite but firm, agree any fee before you accept it, take the offered sprig of mint for the smell, and remember the terrace view is a tip with no obligation to buy. With time, see Chouara for the spectacle and Sidi Moussa for the calm.

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Chouara Tannery

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Sidi Moussa Tannery

FAQ

Frequently asked questions.

What is the difference between the Chouara and Sidi Moussa tanneries in Fes?

Both are working leather tanneries in the Fes medina that use the same centuries-old hand process and are viewed from the terrace of a surrounding leather shop. The Chouara tannery, in the Qarawiyyin quarter, is the large, famous, oldest one — the source of the iconic photo of colourful dye-vats — and is busy. The Sidi Moussa tannery, across the medina near the river, is smaller and much quieter, with far fewer tourists.

Which Fes tannery is best to visit?

For the famous spectacle — the postcard view of the colourful vats — visit the Chouara tannery and accept that it is busy and that the leather shop will give you a sales pitch. If you prefer a calmer, less touristy look at the same traditional tanning process, the smaller Sidi Moussa tannery is the better choice. If you have time, see both.

Is it free to see the Chouara tannery?

You view the tannery from the terrace of a leather shop overlooking the vats, and there is generally no fixed entry fee — a small tip for the terrace view is customary and there's no obligation to buy. Be aware that faux-guides may attach themselves and expect payment, so agree any fee before accepting help, and be polite but firm if you don't want to buy leather goods afterwards.

Why do they give you mint at the Fes tanneries?

Tanning uses natural substances that give the tanneries a strong, pungent smell. Leather shops typically hand visitors a sprig of fresh mint to hold near the nose on the terrace to make the smell more bearable while you take in the view of the dye-vats. It's offered at both Chouara and, where relevant, the quieter tanneries.

Will I be pressured to buy leather at the tannery?

Expect a sales pitch — the terraces with the best views belong to leather shops, and after showing you the vats they'll hope you buy a bag, jacket or pouffe. This is part of the experience rather than a scam. You're under no obligation to buy; a polite, firm 'no thank you' and a small tip for the view is perfectly acceptable. The pressure tends to be lighter at the quieter Sidi Moussa than at busy Chouara.

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